New York, You've Changed -- a shot-by-shot dissection via the movie Taxi Driver

New York, You’ve Changed
-- a shot-by-shot dissection via the movie Taxi Driver
by Nick Carr


The New York depicted in movies compared with the city of today.
This is a full shot-by-shot dissection to see what New York once was and what it has become, for better or worse.

I’ve tried to recreate the angles and framing as best as possible, and have presented the shots (more or less) in the order they appear in the film.

If locations were billed alongside actors, Robert DeNiro would share co-starring credits on Taxi Driver with New York City.

The character of Travis Bickle is utterly co-dependent with the New York of 1976, a spawn of all that New York had become at the time. Without the tough, dangerous, smut-filled, immoral, seedy, dank, sweaty, filthy, gritty streets of that world, Bickle could not exist.

That world has vanished. Travis Bickle is dead.

Finding the locations used in Taxi Driver turned out to be incredibly difficult, largely because the film documents a side of the city that has since been demolished, rebuilt, renovated, spit-shined, and stamped with a seal of approval. Literally, entire blocks that appear in the movie have been leveled since 1976, and only the brief appearance of a building number or street sign gives any clue to the actual location.

The movie begins with a blurry, surreal trip through Times Square and the surrounding blocks. Though the footage is too distorted to be sure of any locations, I’d love to know where that Modell’s is (6th Ave?).

The film opens with Travis Bickle heading to a cabstand on 57th Street to get a job.

In the background of the first shot, the now defunct West Side Elevated Highway is visible. The elevated highway was shutdown in 1973 due to neglect and deterioration (a dump truck collapsing through a portion near 14th Street sealed its fate). The highway was later dismantled and replaced by the mostly ground-level West Side Highway (though some of the old elevated portions remain north of 57th St). The building on the river is gone – anyone know what it is (maybe an old marine terminal)? Note the view of New Jersey in the background; many of those same houses and buildings still exist.

The building on the left in this next still has been torn down; a glass-and-steel highrise is currently going up in its place.

Sadly, the cab stand and surrounding buildings have all been demolished – I’m guessing another glass-and-steel apartment building will also be going up on this spot soon.

Before we continue, a quick look around 57th Street to see what still remains from the Taxi Driver days:

This building on the corner is one of the few remaining structures that was around in 1976. Founded in 1897, Artkraft Strauss was a sign manufacturer famous for creating Times Square’s most iconic neon displays, including the smoking camel, the Bond sign, and the Morgan Stanley ticker. Artkraft Strauss was also responsible for creating and maintaining the National Debt Clock on 34th Street.

In 2006, Artkraft Strauss closed its manufacturing arm to focus on consulting.

I’m willing to bet this garage sign has been around since ‘76.

Finally, I’m not 100% sure about Jamie’s Foreign Car Service, but that font seems pretty dated…and when was the last time you saw a sign in Manhattan advertising repair work on “Japanese Cars”?

Back to the film. Now equipped with a cab, Travis begins making the rounds (he seems to prefer the Times Square beat). For a brief moment, you get a glimpse out the rear window of the cab:

Bond Clothing, on the right in the Taxi Driver still, was once one of the most memorable buildings in Times Square. Famous for advertising “two-trouser suits,” the original building featured two 50-foot statues of a man and a woman…

…and a 50,000 gallon “waterfall” sign behind the main logo, spanning 120 feet at over 27 feet high. Note the sign declaring that “every hour, 3,490 people buy at Bond” (very exact!). Sadly, the Bond store went through many renovations, and closed their Times Square location in 1977 (a year after the filming of Taxi Driver). A new restaurant using the Bond name has opened on 45th Street.

As Travis is driving along, you get a few very quick glimpses at some long gone Times Square establishments. This eatery (location unknown), offers 2 eggs and extras for the bargain price of 90 cents.

A small market (location also unknown) offers cigarettes for 45-50 cents.

Next, we get the iconic shot of Travis walking down 8th Ave south of 47th Street to go to a porno movie.

Yup, a Duane Reader on the corner, a Hilton across the street, and the porn theater is now a Gray Line bus company ticket center (I have to admit, there is something satisfying about the thought of tourists buying NY sightseeing tickets there, totally clueless to the building’s questionable past). Marquee comparisons:

Travis goes the Show & Tell theater at 737 8th Ave between 46th & 47th (DeNiro met his first wife, actress Dihanne Abbot, during the interior filming – she played the porno theater’s concession stand girl). There are two possibilities for the current 737 8th Ave, and neither are very rewarding:

A vacant lot midway up the block…

…or a strip of shuttered former porn video stores on the south corner. Either way, the Show & Tell is gone (though wouldn’t this be the perfect place for another glass-and-steel apartment building??).

After, we get a couple of totally random shots of New York, including this one on 7th Ave at 33rd Street, with the Empire State building in the background.

Coney Island Pizza on the left is now a Sbarro’s. The restaurant on the right is long gone. The building midway down the block is now the Old Navy flagship store. I miss NY’s old yellow street signs. But at least we have a new JC Penney’s!

The movie then takes us uptown to the Charles Palantine campaign headquarters at the corner of 63rd St & Broadway, where Travis meets love interest Betsy. The building is completely gone, replaced by an ugly apartment highrise:

Oddly, the “Locations Then-And-Now” featurette on the Taxi Driver Special Edition DVD incorrectly identifies this building at 62nd & Broadway as the campaign office, which I originally posted about:

Luckily, alert SNY reader David pointed out the mistake. Last time I’ll trust a DVD featurette…

Today, the doors that once brought you into Palantine’s campaign office now take you into a Bank of America.

The stoop Travis sits on is gone (oops – according to alert reader Alex, that’s actually Scorsese and not DeNiro):

Betsy exiting the building:

After Travis gets Betsy to agree to a coffee date, he’s back on his beat in Times Square. Here, we get a POV shot as Travis pulls over on the west side of 7th Ave btw. 42nd & 43rd streets. Things have changed a bit:

The theater playing Anita Nymphet is the old Rialto Theater, sadly torn down in 1998 to make way for the glass-and-steel Reuters building – check out an interesting comparison between buildings here. Playland is gone, of course.

And, on the corner, you get a look at former New York City-based fast food chain Nedicks, once famous for its orange drinks. The big arrow points to a Kentucky Fried Chicken, now gone (you can see part of the white sign).

Depressed? Don’t be – it only gets worse!

When we last left off, Travis Bickle was cruising through Times Square. We then catch him uptown as he makes a drop off at the Hotel Olcott at 27 West 72nd Street. Here, he drives up to the hotel, and we see the O LAR Restaurant on the east side. Today, it's a Dallas BBQ.

Curious what O LAR Restaurant was all about? This awesomely bizarre ad from a 1974 New York magazine should tell you all you need to know!

Travis pulls up to the front of the hotel. Note the new awning:

Then, Travis meets up with his cabbie buddies at an unknown grease joint. As far as I can tell, this isn't the Belmore Restaurant nor The Terminal/Exchange bar featured later on in the film. Anyone have any idea where this might have been? There's a Hess across the street, if that helps.

The next day, Travis meets Betsy at the campaign office. I incorrectly identified the building in the previous post – I trusted the Taxi Driver Special Edition DVD “Locations Featurette,” which has the building at 62nd & Broadway. As alert reader David pointed out, it’s actually at 63rd & Broadway and has completely changed. Nowadays, Betsy would be coming out of a Bank of America.

Travis takes Betsy to a place called Charles' Coffee Shop at the corner of 58th & 8th Ave (long gone, of course). In this shot, we get a glimpse of the old Museum of Arts & Design building:

A different angle gives us a view of Columbus Circle and the future site of the glass-and-steel Time Warner Center:

Charles' Coffee Shop is now a Duane Reade:

Travis asks Betty out to a movie, and decides to get her a Kris Kristofferson album as a gift. He goes to a record store, and though I don't know the original location, the woman's shirt tag identifies it as a Sam Goody (one institution I don't mind having gone extinct). Any guesses?

We then get a shot of Travis driving by a news ticker announcing Palantine's arrival in New York, and at first I couldn't figure out what the hell this mundane office building was. When it hit me that it was 1 Times Square, I couldn't believe how much has changed. Also, I love the ad on the bus.

Travis then meets up with some friends at the Terminal Bar (next to the Exchange Bar), formerly at 41st Street and 8th Ave. Currently, the New York Times building resides on the property, with a Schnippers restaurant in place of the Terminal. I realize 'Terminal' refers to the Port Authority across the street, but there?s something absolutely perfect in the double-meaning.

The Terminal Bar was closed in 1982. A short documentary about the place - more information here.

Finally, we have the legendary meeting between Travis and child prostitute Iris (played by Jodie Foster) in front of the Variety Theater. What remains of the Variety today?

Yes, the Variety was torn down to make room for another glass-and-steel 21-floor condo highrise. Originally opened in 1913 as a Nickelodian theater, the Variety operated until 2004, at which point it was an off-broadway theater. It was torn down in 2005. Intelligent Flickr photographer GVSHP took some pictures prior to its demise, and I warn you, they'll break your heart:

We get a tighter angle as Travis pulls up. The bar on the left is now Daydream Yogurt.

A yogurt place. Just because I'm now feeling particularly angry (really, I want to drive home the point), here's a picture of the Variety's demolition:

Later, as Travis drives west on 42nd Street, we are treated to a great view of 8th Ave looking north. First, we catch a man begging in front of a diner on the east corner. That diner is now some sort of bland pizza chain called the Villa Italian Kitchen (with locations around the world - even Kuwait!).

As we move west, you can see how much has changed. That cigarette shop now appears to be an Auntie Anne's pretzel place. Also, note that the phone booth in the first picture is now a phone stand.

As we continue west, we get a glimpse of the sign for the old Times Square Motor Hotel (free parking!). According to this NY Times article, in 1988, “the director of the Mayor’s Office of Homeless and Single Room Occupancy Housing Services…announced the city’s intention to buy the hotel and use it as a residence for the homeless and as the site of a work-release program for jail inmates.” In other words, a halfway house. Times have changed since ‘88: a Westin Hotel is now on the site.

Finally, as we complete our journey across 8th Ave, we get a shot of the old Show World Center porn theater marquee. Though the theater is now the Times Square Comedy Club/Laugh Factory, Show World is still in business next door as a sex store, and for some reason, I find that a bit refreshing.

Here, you can see the building housing the theater in full - I love its bizarre height and width, and how it sticks out so oddly from the surrounding buildings. It almost looks like a giant middle finger flipping off the rest of Times Square.

Meanwhile, I’d love to know how much – if any – of the awning is originally part of the old porn theater sign (again, I find it strangely appealing to think about tourists sitting in the same theaters where countless pervs spent skeezy nights in Times Square).

Continuing along where we last left off, Travis takes Betsy to Times Square for their ill-fated movie date. Exactly where they are is tough to place as they walk along Broadway/7th Ave, but based on the median, I believe they're at the corner of 45th & Broadway (note that this section of Broadway is now closed off to traffic as a pedestrian walkway):

Travis takes Betsy to the Lyric, a former 42nd Street playhouse and movie theater.

The actual show Travis brings Betsy to see is not the above-advertised Sometime Sweet Susan, but actually, a 1969 Swedish sex educational film called Language of Love. Currently, the Hilton Theatre is gearing up for the 2010 release of the Spider-man musical.

In this photo, you can see the full Lyric facade. Originally designed as an opera school, the Lyric opened as a theater in 1903, with 1,350 seats, 2 balconies, and 18 box seats. In 1934, it was converted into a movie theater to survive the Depression. At some point along the way, it became a porno theater. In 1994, the Lyric and neighboring Apollo theater (on the left) were demolished to make way for a theater combining the two. Major architectural elements were carefully removed and re-installed in the new building, which currently is known as the Hilton Theatre.

Shortly after the film begins, Betsy storms out of the Lyric (would she have the same problem with Spider-man: Turn Off The Dark?).

Travis desperately tries to talk with Betsy, offering us a glimpse across the street of what I believe is the New Amsterdam theater (like the Lyric, it had been converted from a theatrical stage to a movie house during the Depression and was in shambles by the time Disney leased it in 1993).

If you look closely, the theater across the street is playing Clint Eastwood's The Eiger Sanction:

Travis later stops at McAnn's Bar, a location I cannot find anywhere. There are several McAnn's in the city, but none of them have addresses that match the building numbering (McAnn's should be 692 or 694?). Any ideas?

Travis makes a call to Betsy to apologize, and amazingly, this scene was shot in a place where I spend a good amount of time when working on films: the lobby of the Ed Sullivan Theater building which, in addition to the Letterman studio, also houses the Mayor's Office of Film. It's looking quite a bit different these days, but I like that they left the metal phone book holder:

Angry, Travis storms around the corner out the front door:

Travis tries unsuccessfully to talk to Betsy at the campaign office, and while we've already covered the location in detail, I wanted to note the oddly-named restaurant across the street, 'Aunt Fish' (no longer around, of course).

Travis then meets up with his buddies at the Belmore Cafeteria, a former grease joint on the corner of 28th & Park. Sadly, the owner sold the property in 1981, and a bland highrise was built in its place:

An angled view of the new building:

Travis steps outside with fellow cabbie Wizard for a discussion about guns. We get a quick glimpse north (the building on the right past the Belmore is now Les Halles, the restaurant owned by TV personality chef Anthony Bourdain):

The reverse view shows a fight on the street - you can make out a pretty neat subway globe lamp. Meanwhile, a McDonalds is now on the corner.

Across the street, more changes:

Travis continues to follow Betsy, and parks outside her building on Broadway between 62nd & 63rd streets. Across the street, you can see the AAA building entrance, and how it looks today:

Travis decides to check in on Iris, the young prostitute he met outside the Variety. He parks his car on 13th Street between 2nd & 3rd Aves to wait for her. It took me a good ten minutes of searching for that red door before I realized it doesn't exist anymore:

If you haven't noticed, one of the key aspects that makes Taxi Driver a quintessential New York movie is that the city geography makes sense. When Travis takes Betsy to a coffee shop, for example, they head a few blocks south from the campaign headquarters at 62nd Street to a grease joint at 58th. When Travis brings Betsy to the porno theater, we see them walk a logical path down Times Square to 42nd Street. And here, when Travis reunites with Iris, he goes right around the corner from the Variety Theater, where he first met her.

The door marked ROOMS is at 202 East 13th Street (oddly, everyone remembers this entrance, even though nothing ever happens here):

Travis follows Iris along, passing this great wall ad for Endicott Johnson, a New York-based shoe manufacturer. The electronics store on the right is now Cafe Deville.

Travis then speeds off, passing Gothic Cabinet Craft. Hooray! Something that still exists! The sign's different, but it's still the same business over 30 years later.

I take pride in correctly guessing the location of this next shot immediately, in which Travis is picked up by the gun dealer. The only clue in the photo is that tuft of green up the street, but its enough to give it away as Madison Square Park, placing Travis somewhere along 5th Ave (actually at 19th street):

As the cab comes around the corner, we get a quick look at a diner advertising 'coffee shop - fountain service.' This is now a Sephora.

Yes! Another business still around! Same hardware store on 19th street as Travis heads off in the cab.

Travis then attends a political rally, and I can't place this one. I was thinking it might even be in Brooklyn, with the view of the Manhattan Bridge and those warehouse-like buildings in the background. Any guesses?

I have absolutely no idea where the R&M Super Market is (where Travis first uses his new gun).

Travis then attends a second political rally. This was easy to locate, as the first shot features street signs (38th & Seventh Ave). Note the new fancy glass on the left?

In this next shot, the only change is the DONT WALK and street signs. Look carefully and you'll see what 33 years does to a wall advertisement.

One last view of Seventh Ave:

Travis is quickly asked to leave by a cop, and while most of these places are gone, the Spanish Taverna restaurant still exists:

Based on the reviews, I definitely need to try this place one night (though don't be fooled by the exterior - dishes range from $20-$40!).

Yet another corner diner is gone - this time, The Center has been replaced by Health King. Note that everyone is looking and smiling at the camera (Travis is driving too fast to notice during the film):

One final look at how Seventh Ave has changed:

Back to 13th Street again, and Travis meets up with Iris. The place on the corner has been serious renovated and is now Hea, a Japanese restaurant:

Across the street, another view of Gothic Cabinet Craft:

Travis gets out and chats with Iris:

Again, we see the infamous ROOMS entrance - but no one ever goes in!

Travis has a chat with Iris' pimp, played by Harvey Keitel. The scene takes place outside of 204 East 13th Street.:

In this reverse shot, we get a look across the street (the buildings have all since been torn down):

After a deal is reached, Iris and Travis continue down the street...

...to 226 E 13th Street. Things are looking cheerier these days:

A tilt up shows the rest of the building:

Travis later takes Iris to a diner. Any ideas on where this might be?

The street vendor on the right makes me wonder if this is on St. Mark?s (man, does that brick look familiar). Good to know that Gino's Italian Ices have been around so long.

Travis goes to the Palantine rally at Columbus Circle in what proves to be a failed attempt to assassinate the candidate:

The angel statue featured is still around:

As Travis flees the scene, we get a glimpse of the old Gulf + Western building on the corner, later to be stripped down and completely renovated into the Trump International Hotel (along with steel globe).

After the bloody shootout on E 13th Street, the film concludes at the St. Regis Hotel at 55th Street & Fifth Ave. I like the new black awning:

Travis chats with his cab buddies...

...then meets Betsy in a cab to end the film.

As evidenced in these past three installments, quite a lot has changed in New York since 1976. Personally, I don't look back nostalgically on the grittier New York of the late 1970's. As I never experienced it first hand, I believe it's dangerous and naive to romanticize something the city has worked so desperately to rise up from. In 1976, a large portion of New York?s population people simply didn't care, and the city suffered for it. If you pine for this level of apathy, there are plenty of other American cities going through some pretty bad rough patches you could move to, and I promise the rent will be much cheaper.

In 2009, people care. A byproduct of people caring is a city that is safer, more g-rated, more expensive, more museum-like. I agree that such an environment leaves very little room for growth, artistic or otherwise - frankly, you CAN'T have a Belmore diner at the corner of 28th & Park anymore (if you owned the place, would you not sell the property for countless millions?). While I dislike the fact that so many of the FAR more interesting locations in Taxi Driver have been replaced by Duane Reades, McDonald's, Starbucks, and Sephora's, I can only look at it as part of the unfortunate social evolution of New York. Ultimately, if New York City didn't want them, they wouldn't exist for long.

Regardless, as I stated at the beginning of this series, New York is as much a character in Taxi Driver as Travis Bickle, and Scorsese can't be praised enough for giving it so much screen time.

[MikeNesmith]

Awesome so far.

[Predator24]

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Absoltely, FUCKING AWESOME!!!!

[kcamsdog1387]

Seriously, this glimpse in the not so distant past is amazing. I'm a youngin' but to be able to have been in that shady NYC of the 70's would have been such a trip. There's only two places I would be if I were there, Punk Clubs and Porn Theaters

[Predator24]

I'll never forget when I was 12 years old and my Grandfather took me by train to Times Square for the first time. We took the 42nd St. exit from Grand Central and I was in heaven!!!

The rest is history, LOL.

[decano67]

WOW...This is incredible. This is the New York I left in 1979; gritty, dank and very dangerous. From these pictures I can remember how the streets had this sickly sweet/sour smell to them and you never knew when your parents had to deal with a junkie or a mental case or just a group of assholes trying to jack you for your bike/watch/jacket/money. Or the hookers who would set up shop ANYWHERE and fight amongst themselves or cat call at kids...and the shear number of XXX shows!!!! Shop after shop after shop...
It's funny how in order to get to decent theaters and good shows my mother had to drag us through all that shit.
I also remember lots of yelling in the streets: couples, mothers with kids, guys arguing and just lots of commotion... I haven't been back since then but it looks like it has changed for the better. Is this true or does it seem too sanitized or "Disneyfied?"

[TheSNakE]

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this fuckin rocks